Category Archives: Arts & Crafts

Sewing, Beading, Drying Flowers, Scrapbooking etc

DIY soaps and candles

So in my desire to do more "craft-y" stuff and become less cerimonial, i have been getting over myself and my perfectionism and trying to creat my own soaps and candles for mystical workings.

Candles have great practical and mystical uses. Obviously, candles are great for letting in the light, both physically and metaphorically. They are also a great focus for meditation, for learning to evoke and control fire energy, and for entering the otherworld (well, maybe that one is just me b/c i am an aries). Candles can also be used as fetishes in spells, and the scene or colour of the candle can aid in its effectiveness.

I use specially crafted mystical soaps for purification and attaction rituals, and aromatherapy principles work best here to govern the scents chosen.

how to make candles

Candles are pretty easy to make. I would suggest using either soy wax or locally sourced beeswax for candlemaking– parafin is a petroleum based product, and thus not too earth friendly. Beeswax does burn at a high temperature, so if the wax will be used when warm in ritual, opt with soy.

There are many candle molds availible at local craft stores or online. You can also make your own using a cup or other vessel.

Once you have a mold, spray the inside with mold release following the can direction. Thread the wick thru the hole in the mold. (For molds without holes for the wick, there is high temperature doublesided tape which can be used to hold the wick in place.)

Next melt the wax in a double boiler on the stove and add a small amount of candle dye (do not use food colouring) and essential oils. Pour melted wax into mold and let dry overnight. Candle should release easily.

How to make soap

Melt and pour soap is also really easy to make. Glycerine or coconut oil soap are available at most craft stores; organic soap bases are available various places online.

There are many soap molds availible at local craft stores or online. You can also make your own using a cup or other vessel.

Melt soap in a measuring cup in the microwave for 1-2 minutes (or in a double boiler if you do not have a microwave, however the microwave method worked best for me) then add a few drops of food colouring and essential oils—A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY.

Pour into the mold and let dry overnight.

Colours

Most people have their own symbolism for what colour to use for what purpose/ God or Goddess etc, but here is a general list of what I use for which purpose:

Red—love, lust and passion. Mars evocations. Power and focus. Anything to do with fire. Root chakra.

Pink—friendship and children. Evoking Venus and Hathor.

Green—money and prosperity. Restoring balance. Evoking Ma’At or Nike. Heart chakra.

Yellow—happiness, health, and a general sense of wellbeing—Solar Plexus chakra.

Orange—courage, faith, fertility. 2nd  chakra.

Blue—Communication, water, connectivity, energy of flow. Evokation of nymphs, water spirits, Isis, Persephone and Nepthys. Throat chakra.

Indigo—Da’ath energy. The connection to the abyss, the other side, psychic and divination. 3d eye chakra

Purple—many of the “Queen” Goddesses. Head chakra

Black—Banishing negativity. Calming and grounding.

White—Healing and purification.

Brown—Earth magick. The ground, gardening, starting new. Also evocation of the God.

scents

Most people have their own symbolism for what scents to use for what purpose/ God or Goddess etc, but here is a general list of what I use for which purpose:

Rose—Love and protection

Lavender—for extra energy and to banish depression

Sage and cedar—for divination, banishing and protection

Rosemary—for clarity and concentration. Before a long working or divination

Mint—to clear and purify

Chamomile—For rest and to quiet an area or pacify a spirit

Vanilla– for lust and sensuality spells.

Bath Fizzys / Bath Bombs

I recently made these for my girlfriend and she loved them. They are really easy to make and can be a fun project, even for kids.
I found the recipe online, but I've made a few adjustments.

Keep in mind that humidity, room temperature, oil viscosity, and other factors can affect how these are made. I would recommend a nice clean work space, such as your kitchen.

Additionally, if you have any minor open cuts or wounds, the ingredients will cause discomfort.

I used fairly common ingridents for mine. Some are more difficult to find than others. I had to visit 3 different stores to get all the supplies. Check your common grocery store first, but you may have to visit a health food store as well. Craft stores will likely have the fragrances, just make sure you buy the ones intended for soap making and not candles.

Recipe is two parts:

Dry ingredients: (By Weight , as measured on a scale.)

    Baking Soda – 8 ounces
    Citric Acid – 4 ounces (In Ottawa, I only found this at Rainbow Foods)
    Corn Starch – 4 ounces
    Salts – 4 ounces (I used epson salts)

Wet Ingredients:

    Water – .75 tbsp
    Essential or Fragrance Oil – 2 tsp (I used Apple)
    Oil – 2.5 tbsp (I used Organic Coconut Oil, but even vegetable will work)
    Food coloring – 2-6 drops. (Your color will look very dark in the emulsion, but will be light in the end. Start with a couple of drops first)

Other Items:

    Mixing Bowl (Glass works best)
    Mixing Spoon or Wisk
    Small Mixing bowl (for wet ingridents)
    Moulds (This can be anything. I've used apple shapped ice cube trays from the dollar store. They work alright but I suggest basic shapes for the first few attempts. I am on the look out for a round Xmas ornament personally. But you can also use plastic easter eggs, soap moulds, old muffin trays, etc…)

Begin by putting all of your dry ingredients into a big bowl. Get rid of any clumps, you want a fairly smooth consistency throughout the entire mix.

Blend your wet ingredients together as best possible. It won't completely mix together, but it will still work fine. While stiring, slowly add the wet ingredients to the mix. If it begins to foam, your adding the liquid too fast. Mix the reacting parts into a non reacting area and it should stop.
The consistency you are looking for is like wet sand.
You can add additional oil to the mix if too dry. The last batch I ended up adding an additional 1/2 cup of oil to get the right consitency.

Once your mixture is together, you have a pretty limited amount of time in which to get it into molds. You don't need to leave them in the mold for very long though, they can be removed almost immediately. Don't get discouraged if your first couple fall apart.
Dry them for approximately 24 hours to make sure they are hard.
They should last about 6 months.